We can’t deny it - the team at 33Dowanhill LOVE exfoliating acids and toners. We use differing strengths and types every day. Other than cleansing, it is the one step that we believe can make the most dramatic difference to the appearance and texture of your skin.
Often referred to as ‘chemical exfoliants’, the primary reason for incorporating acids into your skincare routine is to work away the layers of dead skin cells, promoting a clearer complexion – think exfoliation without the skin-tearing, environment-harming micro beads! In addition, acids kick-start the creation of essential elastin and collagen within your skin, encourage the turnover of skin cells AND help retain moisture – basically, they are the holy grail when it comes to skincare and you shouldn’t be without them!
Now, we completely understand that putting something with the word ‘acid’ on the label onto your face could strike fear into even the bravest soul. But trust us on this one - in skincare, acids can have the most amazing impact on your skin’s vitality and appearance. Think glowing, radiant skin!
So, what are they?
For the skincare newbies, an acid toner is not one of those “traditional” floral toners of years gone by that claim to tighten pores whilst really doing nothing other than making your face smell like a bed of roses. Not that there’s anything wrong with that if you enjoy using it (seriously, we love a great fragranced facial mist as much as the next girl) but you probably won’t see any significant positive changes to your skin from using them. Acid toners on the other hand - these babies really will kick everything up a notch.
Acids fall into three camps - alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s), beta hydroxy acids (BHA’s) or poly hydroxyl acids (PHA’s).
AHA’s
Alpha-hydroxy acids are water-soluble and work deep underneath the skin. They work quickly to remove dead skin cells, improving the appearance of fine lines and minimising dullness.
The most common AHA’s are:
· Glycolic – good for resurfacing and boosts collagen production
· Lactic – good for a gentler resurfacing, recommended for dehydrated/dry skin
· Malic – helps boost collagen production, providing a more ‘plump’ look to the skin
BHA’s
Beta hydroxyl acids are lipid-soluble which means they can break down surface oil whilst simultaneously working deep into the pores to remove congestion and sebum build-up. The most common BHA is salicylic acid, which is ideal for those with oily or blemish prone skin. We love the Paula’s Choice salicylic acid!
PHA’s
Poly hydroxy acids function in much the same way as AHA’s but cause less irritation due to having a larger molecular size. They are particularly good for those with sensitive skin.
Where to start and what to expect
If you start off slowly and proceed with caution, most people will see the positive effects of acid toners visibly after the first few days and experience little or no negative reactions.
Don’t go in all guns blazing – especially if you are trying out acid toner for the first time. Initially, try applying 2-3 times a week and monitor progress. Some people experience tingling sensations or slight irritation/redness to begin with, but this usually passes very quickly.
The key thing to remember is that you must LISTEN TO YOUR SKIN. If it starts to feel tight, itchy, sore or shows signs of persistent redness or irritation, we’d recommend that you reduce or stop using the product and look for something lighter to try instead.
Keep in mind
Most acids will increase your sensitivity to sunlight, maximising the need for you to apply a high quality, high factor SPF every day.
In addition, high doses of salicylic acid in its oral form (aspirin) have been linked to birth defects and pregnancy complications. Although there has been no research undertaken on its topical use, pregnant women tend to opt out of using this acid. Try a lactic or glycolic instead!
The perfect mix
To get the greatest impact when using acids and keep your skin cells on their toes, try mixing up your treatments throughout the week. For example, you could try out a stronger formula for evening use, something lighter for the morning and a third once-weekly treatment to give your skin a deep clean when it needs it.
Remember, each type of acid toner brings something different to the skincare party but mixing them up can be a huge commitment, so if you don’t have time for a 10 step, elaborate, everyday skincare routine then using one that works well for your skin on a consistent basis will help you to see a huge improvement, whatever your skin concern.
Still not sure where to start? or not quite sure which acid type would be best for your skin? You can book in for a Signature Facial with us by clicking the button below!
Love,
33Dowanhill
x